Mount Bromo Takeaway Thoughts & Tips
Communication
Language may be difficult at times, the tour guides
can speak enough English to get you. Sign language/ charades helps.
Food in Cemoro Lawang
Like I shared in a lot of my previous blog entries,
I am not a foodie. I like eating, but I will not exert a lot of effort
researching about a place’s unique cuisine. I was lucky I found this really
nice eatery-type of restaurant in Cemoro Lawang. This is just a couple of
meters away from my homestay. The prices are reasonable. And I love it that
their menu is short. I feel that if a menu is long, it is more of a
“customer-pleaser” than “sharing a cooking talent”. Also, less options makes me
more decisive.
I urge you try their drinks! I really really love
susu jeruk (milk with orange), susu jahe (milk with ginger) and their teh
(tea).
Their Indonesian hot soup is also amazing. Their mi
goreng is really pansit. I like the instant mami version better. Buy Mi Goreng in the supermarket and take them home as souvenirs.
Wasn't able to finish them. The hot soup is really delicious. |
The server/cook/owner is this grandma-type person
who greets you sincerely with a smile. She grows her own herbs in front. She
picks them depending on your order. Don’t expect express service here, this is
not a fastfood. The delicious food will come.
Fresh herbs in the garden |
I had a nice time watching people pass by (not a
lot of people, but still) outside the restaurant. I was reading the required readings.
Bagay.
The Power of Place by Harm De Blij. |
Attire
No need to bring some serious hiking gear. I
survived the trek with simple cross-training shoes (an old pair tried and
tested in Indochina). The trek to the Penanjakan viewpoint is uphill in a paved
road. The trek to the crater is dusty, BRING A MASK. In both, normal walking
shoes will suffice. You can rent a coat from your homestay for IDR
20,000-25,000. Better rent because rental rates up in the viewpoint are higher.
You can ditch the jacket when you trek to the crater because it will be hot by
then.
The Touts of Probolinggo
I did the Ngadas route because I didn’t want to
endure the long van trip and I didn’t want to deal with the notorious touts of
Probolinggo. But... you’ll probably pass by Probolinggo because it is the
transportation hub going to Mount Bromo (unless you have enough moolah to hire
a private van from Mount Bromo going all the way to Surabaya airport). The trip
takes around 4 hours because of traffic. I had an evening flight (20:50H)
flying out of Surabaya. I left the homestay past 10:00H and headed at the end
of the street to find the vans going to Probolinggo. Renting the whole van to
Probolinggo costs IDR 500,000. The price per passenger goes down if more passengers
ride. We were 9 in the group and we agreed that we would pay IDR 55,000 each (I
think someone was willing to pay an additional IDR 5,000 just so the van would
leave). The ride was bumpy, I tuned out after a while in their conversations
because I was getting dizzy from the humidity, the van was not airconditioned.
We arrived in Probolingo after 40 minutes.
My fellow passengers have been in Probolinggo
before so they knew the drill. Just ignore everyone or loudly say NO to all the
touts shouting and offering you stuff. Bromo? Bromo? Bromo? There are loads of
them. They were all highly annoying, I tell you. A test of patience. I stuck
with a French couple and they kept saying “No” for me. When we broke off, I was
approached by this very pushy tout and pointed me to a bus going to Surabaya. I
checked the destination, it was indeed going to Surabaya. He went to the bus
with this other person and he said that I should pay him IDR 50,000. I had a
nagging feeling that it was wrong but I lost all my travel assertive powers and
handed him IDR 50,000. Both touts got off the bus. That bad feeling in my gut stayed,
and I just recalled that they didn’t hand me a receipt! Fudge! So I stormed
down the bus past the driver and some other touts (I think) and went to the
direction of the ticket office where an official-looking person was in the
window. The tout club called “Hey! Hey! Hey!”
I asked the official looking guy behind the window
how much the fee going to Surabaya bus was. The normal bus costs IDR 15,000.
The express bus costs just IDR 23,000. Boooo. Boooo. Boooo. I got scammed. He wrote down the numbers in a piece of
paper. I tried to explain the bus driver that I already paid but those freakin’
touts didn’t give me any ticket. He just said: “Okay, just please ride the bus,
we will leave in 10 minutes”. I guess they all get a kickback of some sort in
this operation.
I guess the family in front of me knew that it was
a scam but they didn’t want to get involved, they probably had little English
as well. I placed my backpack beside me during the entire trip so I was
actually occupying two seats. Aba dapat lang no, I paid the scam price that was
enough for two seats. There was a lot of vendors climbing on and off the bus
during the trip. The vendors place their goods in your lap. Then they get it
back after a while. You can just accept the item, just don’t open the package
and you don’t have to pay for anything. I enjoyed the “musicians” who were
playing Indonesian music (then asks for donations afterwards). I pretended to
be asleep when they pass by me.
My tip for Probolinggo survival: ignore the touts,
and go towards the ticket information office directly and ask the person to
write down the fare for you.
Traffic was horrible in some areas. We arrived in
another terminal in Surabaya shortly past 3pm. I found the official bus going
to the airport. Fare costs 20,000. These are the gray mini-buses. The trip took
less than 30 minutes.
Souvenirs
I had four hours to kill before my flight. I had
enough time to buy some souvenirs at the airport. They had lots of dried stuff.
Dried cassava chips – flavored i strawberry, grapes, and there’s good old
plain. There’s also dried eel and snapped. Stick to the cassava chips. The
strawberry flavor is quite nice. The coconut cookies are also yummy. Both are
cheap enough at IDR 15,000-20,000 a pack.
Reminds me of Pixie’s boneless bangus. Not gonna
buy that one and carry it all the way back to Manila.
Take-home boxed fish all the way to the Philippines? |
Don’t waste all of your Rupiah in buying souvenirs.
I paid IDR 75,000 as airport fee in Surabaya airport – amount was collected
when I checked-in my luggage.
Race in
Jakarta Airport
The Surabaya to Jakarta flight was delayed by 20
minutes and it took time to get my luggage.
From Jakarta Airport (CGK), I had to catch a 00:25H
flight flying back to Manila. I had to change terminals. At 22:35H, I was
rushing out of the terminal to catch the shuttle going to the other terminal. I
had just enough time. In my rush, I rode the WRONG BUS. I asked a foreigner and
he told me the bus’ destination is 75 kilometers away from the airport. GOOD
THING the angels were on my side, the bus was stopping at Terminal 2 before
going its long way. I got off terminal 2 and spent another 15 minutes getting
lost finding my check-in counter. Out of breath, I was at the check-in counter 1 hour before departure.
Phew! A heart-pounding experience I do not want to repeat again.
I had to pay another airport tax of IDR 150,000
when I checked-in my luggage. I had some time to grab water and some snacks
from an open food stand, I got thirsty from the whole ordeal (although I had to
throw out the water when I passed by security. Boo. My flight was already
boarding when I got in the boarding gate. I fell asleep even before the
security demo.
I was able to grab this flyer before I left. It is nice to know that Indonesia offers VAT refund. I WISH that the Philippines would have the same mechanism for tourists. We have nice shopping malls but we don't offer any VAT refunds for tourists. It would be nice to have a VAT refund system to entice tourists to shop and enjoy our humongous shopping malls.
And they have a VAT refund. Hay. Pilipinas. |
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